New gastro developments in Madrid
Palaces repurposed as gastronomic destinations, new taverns that reinvent old classics, sophisticated street food and vegetarian haute cuisine for all. We present some of the latest cuisines emerging in Madrid that must be eaten to be believed.
Having worked for fours years at El Bohío (one Michelin star and two Repsol suns), headed up by Pepe Rodriguez in Illescas (Toledo), young chef Eduardo Guerrero has opened his own personal family project: his father, Julio Guerrero, is maître d’ at Claudio Coello, 122. Adaly‘s radically honest cuisine revolves around produce, with interesting offerings such as canalón de cocido in its own broth or pichón soasado in three textures with a sandwich of its parfait.
An actual palace – the 1903 Saldaña palace – is home to ABYA, one of the most ambitious gastronomic and leisure projects in Spain in recent decades. With 1,000sqm spread over four floors and a garden, this initiative by entrepreneur Manuel González is headed by the talented chef Aurelio Morales, who previously earned a Michelin star and two Repsol suns for Cebo. Among a plethora of Latin American works of art, the menu focuses on a fusion of world cuisines.
The Las Salesas district in the heart of Madrid is home to Mercedes Caamaño and Agustín Patrizio’s charming vegetarian restaurant. Its plant-based menu by Maximiliano Rossi is inspired by nomadic peoples and invites you to explore classic flavours from Spain, Asia and the Americas, such as the delicious aubergine Milanesa. The space, designed by Argentine designer Eme Carranza, brings together the experience and power of a true culinary journey with imposing Persian textiles used as tapestries as though it were a Bedouin stretch tent. Don’t miss its amazing cocktails.
Ibiza, the trendy new area in Madrid next to Retiro Park, is the setting for Kulto’s culinary offering. Inspired by Cádiz and its gastronomy, it is also influenced by chef José Fuentes’ travels, from Bali to Peru, taking in Mexico and Thailand and, of course, Madrid. Fuentes, also the creator behind well-known projects in Zahara de los Atunes, such as Albedrío and Taberna Traste, works with bluefin tuna, but also with species such as sea bass and rubberlip grunt, beef retina and local classics such as tripe, ear and the ‘pepito’.
Jhosef Arias has moved his Humo to Hermosilla Street in Madrid’s Salamanca district. The restaurant – the least formal of the group – has turned the Peruvian street food of fire-roasted chickens into Madrid classics. Served with uchu sauces (based on smoked yellow ají and wild marigold) and spicy qhari and rocoto chilis, which share the menu with delicious snacks such as causas and ceviches, fire-grilled meats, potatoes and rice dishes, and typical beverages such as chicha morada, chilcano and pisco sour.
6 La Morena
The best product from Cádiz is on the center of Brayan Sevilla, trained with Ramón Freixa, and Luis Salinas' cuisine in La Morena. This new restaurant on Paseo de la Castellana, which opened just a few months ago, serves original Asian-influenced recipes such as crispy rice with kimchi mayonnaise and smoked sardines or pickled mango anchovies with minced nuts and sweet chilli. If you like red tuna from Cádiz, try the marmitako with roasted apple, lemon cream and minced pistachios.
Authentic trattoria gastronomy and a passion for produce and recipes are always the main focus of Baldoria. The restaurant opened its doors just a few months ago on Ortega y Gasset Street and is the new project of chef Ciro Cristiano, the man behind Bel Mondo and Villa Capri in Madrid. Its menu features pastas made fresh daily, with dishes such as cacio y tartufo and chitarra al Bogavante, along with moreish pizzas and snacks.