Salzburg: music and Christmas spirit
In Salzburg, the jewel of Austria, history and music are intertwined at every corner. Known worldwide as the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Salzburg offers visitors a rich combination of architectural beauty and cultural legacy. But Salzburg’s music scene is not the only thing that has brought fame to this city, which prides itself on having one of the oldest Christmas markets in Europe. Join us to discover the village where ‘Silent Night’ was composed and discover a city full of rhythm and Christmas spirit.
Fly to Salzburg, Iberia’s newest destination, from 30 November from 15 000 Avios (return trip).
Salzburg has been a thriving city for centuries. The trade of what the locals call ‘white gold’ has forever marked its history. The Hallein salt mines, so impressive that they have been called ‘worlds of salt’ (Salzwelten in German) and which can be visited by accessing the mountain in a mining train, contributed to local prosperity and the enrichment of noble families. This led to a historic centre of enormous charm and beauty that is one of the most refined on the entire European continent.
Recognised by Unesco as a World Cultural Heritage Site in 1996, Salzburg’s historic centre boasts architectural representations of almost all European artistic movements, from flamboyant Gothic to Baroque. One of the most impressive examples of the latter is its cathedral, the first in the Baroque style north of the Alps, whose façade and dome are a technical and aesthetic feat. Inside is a bronze baptismal font dating from 1300. Salzburg’s most famous citizen, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (visitors will find his name in every corner of the city) was baptised here just one day after he came into the world.
In Cathedral Square and in the adjacent Residenplatz, the Christkindlmarkt – also known as the Advent Market – has been held every year since the 15th century. This year, it will open its doors on 21 November to celebrate its 50th anniversary (it was officially relaunched in 1974). In Austria, the weeks before Christmas are full of excitement and the cities are filled with Advent wreaths and the aroma of Vanillekipferl, typical crescent-shaped almond and vanilla cookies, which many locals bake or buy between November and January. In the Christkindlmarkt you can taste Glühwein, a hot, sweet wine typical of Germany, Austria and Switzerland that creates passionate fans among those who taste it. In the almost 100 stalls of this Christmas market, covered by lights that imitate a starry sky, you can find all kinds of handmade decorations for Christmas trees or nativity scenes, toys, decorations, candles and incense, in addition to the parades of the Krampus, an amusing Alpine mythological creature that threatens to carry away children who do not have enough Christmas spirit, and a programme of choral music concerts at which carols are sung.
The one that is most heard will probably be ‘Silent Night’ (Stille Nacht! Heilige Nacht! in German), which was composed by the priest Joseph Mohr with music by the organist Franz Xaver Gruber. The first time this carol was performed in public was on the evening of 24 December 1818 in the parish of St Nicholas de Oberndorf, a small village on the outskirts of Salzburg. In this picturesque town, the Stille-Nacht-Kapelle, a memorial chapel located next to the Stille-Nacht Museum, was opened on the grounds of the aforementioned parish, where the history and cultural impact of this carol – known worldwide and considered the only song that, even if only for a few hours – managed to stop a war, is examined. Austrians are so proud of their ‘Silent Night’ that every 24 December at 5pm they pay tribute to its creators in the memorial chapel, while in the museum the most daring can participate in a karaoke where the carol is played in several languages.
Back in the centre of Salzburg, a route through its streets will take you to spots such as the imposing Mirabell Palace, built in 1606 by Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich for his beloved Salome Alt. Baroque in style, it houses what is known as the most beautiful wedding hall in the world. Its Marble Hall hosted the concerts of Leopold Mozart and his even more famous son, Wolfgang, who became known throughout Europe via this court as the musical genius he was. The palace gardens, created in the 17th century, are equally spectacular, offering views of the Hohensalzburg Fortress and transporting visitors to other eras. Classical music concerts continue to be held at Mirabell Palace – both indoors and in the gardens – and can be enjoyed at different times of the afternoon or evening. This location also has its own Christmas market in Mirabellplatz, in front of the palace, which is usually open until 8pm.
The next stop on our route is the majestic Hohensalzburg Fortress, which dominates the city’s skyline. Built in 1077 on Mount Festungsberg by Archbishop Gebhard, this building has undergone numerous extensions and improvements over the centuries. Today, it stands as the largest castle in Europe that has been preserved in its entirety. Within its walls you can find museums and exhibitions on the military history of Salzburg, as well as curiosities such as the Puppet Museum and the Prince’s Chambers, with original furniture from 1501. Naturally, the Hohensalzburg Fortress also has its own Christmas market, located in the castle courtyard and usually open from Friday to Sunday.
Of course, no one can leave Salzburg without visiting Mozart’s Birthplace, today one of the most visited museums in the country. On 27 January 1756, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born on the third floor of the Hagenauer House, which his family had moved to in 1747, and where he spent his childhood and adolescence. In 1880, the building, famous for its yellow façade, was converted into a museum that focuses on the life of the musical genius through his personal objects, such as his child’s violin and his harpsichord. Mozart’s Birthplace is located at Number 9 Getreidegasse, recognised as one of the main arteries of Salzburg as it is the largest and oldest shopping street in the city. Here, in addition to the best examples of typical Salzburg architecture, you can find artisan workshops and jewellers, luxury firms, liquor stores, cafés and pastry shops, such as the Konditorei Füst, where the world-famous Mozartkugel was created in 1890. At Christmas, the Getreidegasse enjoys one of the most beautiful switching on of lights in all of Austria.