Legend has it that, back in the late 19th century, a peasant from Valls named Xat de Benaiges burned the onions he was roasting over some coals. He peeled back the burned layers, revealing the tender part inside, now known as calçots. When his neighbours tried them, they discovered how delicious they were, so the next year they fired up the coals and set some tables outside, thereby organising the very first calçotadas. The culinary instinct of the people naturally led them to pair these onions with salvitxada or romesco sauce (it is important to differentiate between them) and, ever since, Catalonians have had a different way to deal with winter. Calçots have a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), a distinction that attracts diners from around the world.

Calçots are a kind of spring onion some 15 centimetres long and two centimetres in diameter. First cultivated in Tarragona, today they can be found throughout the Ebro Valley and across inland Catalonia. Their name – which was not official until the second half of the 20th century – refers to the very special way the onions are grown, which is by earthing up the soil around the shoots; in other words, calçant la terra sobre els brots (shoeing the earth over the buds). This technique is how the calçots acquire their characteristic elongated shape, which has made tasting this dish – characterised by the sweetness of these onions – into such a recognisable act. The process for growing calçots is long and complex: the seeds are planted between October and December and allowed to germinate and develop until summer. At this point, they are simply onions. Next, they are uprooted and then replanted without the tops of their leaves and lastly the soil is earthed up around them.

Calçots can be enjoyed throughout Catalonia from January to April and are always fire grilled. When the outer layer of the calçots is completely black, they are removed from the heat and wrapped in newspaper to conserve heat. At calçotadas – which are defined as community meals in which calçots are enjoyed in the company of friends and family – the ritual is as important as the flavour. First, a calçot is taken from the top of the pile, the burned outer layer is carefully removed and the tender part is dipped in a generous amount of romesco or salvitxada sauce (which contrasts with the heat of the onions), held up, then placed in the mouth. This first course is followed by typical mouthwatering local meats or sausages, also fire-grilled. On the first Sunday in January, the famous Gran Fiesta de la Calçotada de Valls is held in the cradle of calçots. It is the most traditional event related to this food and marks the beginning of the season for the rest of Catalonia. It typically includes grower contests, tastings, romesco sauce exhibits and traditional shows. From this moment on, calçotadas are organised in farmhouses throughout inland Catalonia until well into March and even April, especially at the weekends. There are also tastings of local wines and typical desserts, such as crema catalana.

Can Travi Nou is one of the best places to enjoy calçots. This restaurant, opened 40 years ago by Josep Soler and María Teresa Ribatallada in a 19th-century farmhouse, offers an exquisite calçotada set menu from 7 January. It is an authentic experience in which the calçots are served as appetisers, followed by a Coca del ‘Maresme’ toasted flatbread with tomato and olive oil. Next up is an incredible variety of grilled meats, with chicken, lamb and chistorra, morcilla and Garriga sausages served up with beans and ember-roasted potatoes with aioli. The icing on the cake is the house red wine and the crema catalana custard dessert. This eatery in Horta – an oasis in the heart of Barcelona – prepares calçots on its charcoal grill and serves them with a romesco sauce “made from almonds and hazelnuts, grilled tomatoes and garlic, oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and toasted bread,” reveals chef Salva Zurano, who can serve up to 20,000 calçots a week.

The Can Travi group is known for maintaining tradition at its calçotadas by respecting the quality of the ingredients and the grilling process. It combines this with attention to detail and the magnificent historic settings where its restaurants are located. That is why Can Cortada, a restaurant opened in 1994 a short distance from Can Travi Nou in a restored 11th-century palace and now declared an Artistic Heritage of Barcelona, offers an unparalleled experience for enjoying calçots, in this case served with slices of toasted peasant bread with tomato, garlic and olive oil. El Pintor, owned by the same group, is the gastronomic reference point in the Gothic Quarter. It is located in a 19th-century restoration workshop, which gives the restaurant its name. This restaurant’s main attraction is that it expands its calçotada menu with an exquisite vegan option featuring rice with vegetables and a greater variety of dishes to serve with the calçots, including, for example, grilled artichokes or a la llauna cod.

Another great option for enjoying a calçotada is at La Llar de Foc, located in the town of Sant Feliu de Codines, about 40 minutes from Barcelona. Notable for its rural atmosphere and excellent grill, this restaurant is perfect for those who want to enjoy an authentic experience during which calçots are prepared in a traditional way. They also usually have a calçotada menu where the essentials usually appear: calçots served with romesco sauce, followed by a selection of fire-grilled meats, with sides such as beans, caliu potatoes and house-made aioli. In addition, La Llar de Foc offers local wines and traditional Catalonian desserts, making each visit a complete and memorable gastronomic experience.

Another option for those who do not want to leave Barcelona is Casa Masana brazier, located in the heart of the Eixample. This restaurant specialises in fire-grilled cuisine and offers a variety of dishes that stand out due to their carefully crafted, authentic flavours. During calçot season, Casa Masana offers a special calçotada menu, which includes a selection of fire-grilled meats, such as sausages and other specialities, in a particularly welcoming and family-friendly atmosphere.