Uruguay and the giant’s journey
Every year, between July and November, Uruguay’s become a natural sanctuary for the southern right whale, one of the most impressive spectacles of marine fauna. From July to November, this cetacean – which can reach 16 metres in length and 50 tonnes in weight – swims between Barra del Chuy and Piriápolis, choosing Barra del Chuy’s coastline as its favourite mating grounds. A route with viewpoints and observation towers allows you to discover these giants of the ocean in breath-taking locations.
With strategic vantage points in destinations like La Paloma and Punta del Este in the departments of Rocha and Maldonado, Uruguay’s whale-watching season usually begins in July. However, the first sightings of these whales – known for spending long periods at the surface – can sometimes occur as early as April and last until November.
One of the largest mammals on the planet, right whales leave their feeding grounds near Antarctica – where they consume tonnes of krill – at the end of the Southern Hemisphere summer in search of calmer and warmer waters to breed and give birth to their calves. Their breeding grounds are in Santa Catarina (Brazil) and the Valdés Peninsula (Argentina), but for socialisation, they choose the Uruguayan coast. During the Southern Hemisphere winter, mothers and their young – typically born from June onward – can be seen here, along with encounters between females and males ready to mate. The migratory path of the southern whale is not linear, so each year is a one-of-a-kind spectacle that provides scientists with more information about this species.

Experts estimate that the total population of southern right whales today is between 7,000 and 10,000 individuals. These cetaceans are known both for their impressive V-shaped spout – a burst of steam and water that can reach up to three metres high – and for the callosities on their heads, which act like fingerprints, as each whale has a unique pattern that identifies it for life. Adult whales weigh between 20 and 40 tonnes on average, with females being a little bigger than males. They live in groups ranging from two and 12 individuals, and approach boats of all kinds to satisfy their curiosity. At birth, the calves weigh about a tonne and measure about four metres. During the early weeks, their weight can increase by up to 150 kilograms a day, reaching 8 tonnes in weight and 8 metres in length in the first three months of life.
The migratory path of the southern right whale is not without dangers. Climate change, intensive fishing (during the 19th century the population of the southern whale shrank by 90% due to indiscriminate fishing) and oil industries threaten the survival of these giants and their calves. In recent decades, Uruguayans have come together to protect and care for this species and its ecosystem in a community effort that resulted in the creation of the Whale and Dolphin Sanctuary in 2013. The initiative was successful thanks to the efforts of the Cetacean Conservation Organization (CCO), which now manages this sanctuary, and a group of schoolchildren from the departments of Rocha and Maldonado. Together, they sent a petition to the Uruguayan parliament, which unanimously approved the establishment of a 160-kilometre protected corridor.

Whale watching can be carried out from boats, although they must be kept at a certain distance from the whales to ensure the safety of both the cetaceans and the ship’s crew. From the ports of Piriápolis or Punta del Este in Maldonado, visitors can embark on boat tours for an immersive whale-watching experience. For those who prefer to spot the southern right whale from the shore, the Uruguayan coastline offers beautiful, high-quality observation points, strategically located to enjoy the leaps of these cetaceans that often come quite close to the beach. Southern right whales flap their flippers, create whirlpools and do pirouettes to socialise and have fun, as well as to teach their calves how to exercise and strengthen their bodies. As a result, the spectacle from the observation points is often unparalleled.

The first step before starting a route through the Rocha and Maldonado observatories is to get some good binoculars so that you will enjoy the experience to the max and be able to stay focused. To start off, Punta Ballena in Maldonado is a promontory offering a panoramic view of the ocean, making it a prime location for whale watching. It is also known for being home to Casapueblo, the emblematic construction by the artist Carlos Páez Vilaró. The next observation point is the Viewpoint of the Monument to the Southern Right Whale in Punta del Este. Here, the sculptor Raúl Sampayo built an impressive metal structure that replicates the distinctive silhouette of the whale’s tail fluke. Positioned facing the ocean, it simulates the movement of these cetaceans on the horizon. The 5-metre-high sculpture not only beautifies the environment, but also educates and invites us to reflect on the importance of preserving the habitat of these animals. Continuing the journey to the east, the Faro de José Ignacio lighthouse, an iconic spot on the Barra del Chuy coast, is also one of the most striking observation points in the department of Maldonado.

If we continue on to the department of Rocha, the Cola de Ballena viewpoint in El Cabito de La Paloma is one of the most famous and popular spots for whale watching. This observation point, also designed to mimic the whales’ tail fluke, is the first of a series of themed viewpoints that allow you to see not only the migratory path of these cetaceans, but also some of the country’s most stunning sunsets. In addition, less than five minutes away is the Mirador del Cristo del Lucho viewpoint, another breath-taking spot located at Playa de Los Botes beach in La Paloma, where a sculpture created by the artist Alfredo Maurente – known as Don Lucho – was installed to protect the fishermen who venture out to sea in the area. Besides offering stunning opportunities for sighting, Rocha has an authentic right whale skeleton. Measuring 11 metres long, it is on display at the La Paloma spa near the Council Office’s Information Centre. Finally, the viewpoint of La Mano in Barra de Chuy is located on the edge of the previously mentioned Whale and Dolphin Sanctuary, a perfect place to look out over the Atlantic in search of the southern right whale.